I
pick up martini’s signature glass, not spilling a drop. I hold it religiously,
savoring the ancient scents from antique juniper glades – and it transports. I
dance back into my youth, long before debilitating aches. I am lusty once
again, filled with strength, with a fertile mind and body, with the ability to
race and jump. Old memories leap forward: Vivian and I sipping martinis on Snoopy’s[i]
quiet pier watching the gulls hover over Texas wetlands, with Bob and Anne
Marie at Morell[ii]
in Manhattan, or just relaxing before a winter fire in our Wilmington home library
A
martini is simply the mating of gin and dry vermouth, generally in Fibonacci proportions,
of one to eight, but its assembly requires careful attention. No water. No
camouflaging flavors. And careful engineering and some ceremony.
The
epitome of ceremony: While at a very
fine hotel in Barcelona, that ancient world of elegant artistry, we watched as
two white coated waiters rolled out a finely carved oak table draped in starched
white linen, on which rested a single thin martini glass and one lemon. To the martini
glass, Juan added ice and a splash of water while Luis assisted me in picking
out my gin and finding out whether I preferred it classical, dry or dirty. I
prefer classical; I want to be able to feel the vermouth. Taking up the lemon,
two shallow shavings were removed. Juan pared one down to a long thin zest, the
other he left whole. Gin and a bit of vermouth were added to a dry canister. The slush in the martini glass was thrown out
and the chilled glass wiped dry. The wider lemon peel was flicked across the
rim leaving a thin coat of lemon oil. Juan
dropped a few ice cubes into the gin-vermouth mixture and stirred it quickly,
poured it into the dry glass while Luis lifted up the thin, lemon zest, twirled
it around his finger, and dropped it into the glass where it uncoiled
gracefully. Then they both paused, standing at attention, allowing the various flavors
to get acquainted. Juan brought over a small white napkin which he centered precisely
in front of me and onto which Luis ceremoniously placed the martini. I placed two
fingers on each side of the rim, raised the martini, slowly drew in the power
of the junipers, took a small sip, rolled it in my mouth, bathing each taste
bud, sighed, and then applauded the artist for a drink well made. Exquisitely made indeed.
Bar
tenders relax. Americans prefer far less
pomp – but a good martini requires the same basic steps in this order: a) chilled
martini glass; b) good gin and vermouth mixed together, c) ice added, then stirred,
d) quick decanting and e) a garnish added. Note, though it seems counter
intuitive, the ice must be added to the liquid, never the other way around. The
gin and ice should never be allowed to just sit while a busy bar keep attends
to others. It is stirred, never shaken; shaking only splinters the ice which
then melts in the glass. Water kills a martini.
Garnishes:
·
Must
there be a lemon? What about olives or pickled onions? Preferences here depend
on the individual – and on the gin. I prefer to complement the simplicity of
Tanqueray with a “wet olive,” one dipped first in its own juices. If the only
gin available is cheap and harsh, then add olive juice to make a “dirty martini,”
the salt buffers the rough edges. For
more complex gins, such as Hendriks with its hints of rose petals and cucumber,
I prefer the simple zest of lemon. Blue Cheese olives are delightful, except
for the oil slick they leave behind. My brother favors Garlic stuffed olives,
not I. With a pickled onion, known as a Gibson (martini), one gets a bit of
sweetness, the better the pickling, the better the Gibson.
Gins:
·
Martinis
require the mystical kiss of juniper, as found in a fine gin - not vodka. Gin alone
holds the juniper power, the dulcet melody, and the magic of a really fine
martini. The choice of gins is vast. I
prefer Tanqueray or Hendricks. Even in North Carolina’s ABC stores, one has the
choice of 14 imported gins and 34 domestics, including 4 distilled in our
state. The only local gin I’ve tasted is
Cardinal and I found its herbals far too raw.
Pet
Peeves:
·
Water
in the gin: the elegant and venerable Fairmount in Boston go so far that it serves
the martini in a carafe that they have allowed to cool in a bowl of shaved ice,
never abused by water.
·
Olives
strung out across the rim. It’s pretty but adds nothing to the taste. I prefer my olive dipped first in its juice
and then sunk to the bottom.
·
Half-filled
glasses: a martini glass is designed to vent the juniper aroma, it needs to be
full. Unfortunately, North Carolina,
with its prohibitionist mind-set, limits the ounces per drink. If a bar uses a standard size martini glass,
it will be only half filled. Some, like Red Monkey, have begun using smaller
stem-less glasses. Inelegant? Yes. But
given the limits on pourage, they provide a better taste.
Food
Pairings.
·
Bread
is a natural. I especially enjoy a
basket of freshly made Louisiana hush puppies.
·
Avoid
anything oily, vinegary or spicy-hot; like dreadful siblings they vie too hard
for your attention.
Recommendations:
·
My
best ever martini in Raleigh was at Vivaci[iii],
a fluke it has yet to replicate. Betski’s[iv]
and Holly’s[v]
also do a good job, with direction. Get to know your bartender. I recommend
Zack Vile at Red Monkey[vi];
Tony Coulter at Bloomsbury[vii]
or Aaron Squires at Irregardless[viii].
I only make a reservation if the receptionist can guarantee a favored bar
tender. And, I try to tip accordingly.
[i]
Snoopy's Pier, 13313 S Padre Island Dr, Corpus Christi, TX 78418 snoopysrestaurant.com
[ii]
Morrell Wine Bar & Café, 1 Rockefeller Plz, New York, NY 10020 morrellwine.com
[iii]
Vivace, 4209 Lassiter Mill Rd, Ste 115, Raleigh, NC 27609 www.vivaceraleigh.com
[iv] J
Betski's, 10 W Franklin St Ste 120, Raleigh, NC 27604. jbetskis.com
[v]
Holly’s on Hargett (formerly called Mo's Diner), 306 E Hargett St, Raleigh, NC
27601. www.mosdiner.net
[vi]
Red Monkey Tavern, 4325 Glenwood Ave S Ste 2079, Raleigh, NC 27612 redmonkeytavern.com
[vii]
Bloomsbury Bistro, 509 W Whitaker Mill Rd Ste 101, Raleigh, NC 27608 www.bloomsburybistro.com
