RED MONKEY TAVERN

Luck was a lady that night.

Before retiring to Raleigh, we lived in NY/NJ and then DC, both areas rich in restaurants of all prices and ethnic varieties.  We enjoyed “regular” status in both areas, and even garnered good friends from waiters there, one whom my wife even invited to our daughter’s wedding.  Moving to Raleigh to be close to family meant we gave up a lesser benefit for the greater – and yet we yearned for the cozy, emotionally satisfying feeling of a restaurant we liked, whose management and waiters knew us, and to which we could escape as we needed. 

We accidentally fortuned onto Red Monkey. Impatient with the long line at Crabtree Mall’s Cheesecake Factory, we journeyed next door.  Though Red Monkey’s parking lot entrance gets eclipsed by the jazz of its neighbor, don’t pass it by.  If you’re in the Mall look for the spiffy red bi-wing plane that hangs over its mall entrance.

Inside, the club like atmosphere beckons one to enter a world of imagination and delight, where quality trumps excess quantity.  An incised red arabesque swirls across the ceiling, beckoning exploration. I love the large bronze monkeys, especially the one golfing and another geared up in a Paddington coat. Nooks hold various whimsies, including a toy British double decker holding candy.  Antique lights and crystal chandeliers shine on portraits and posters of by-gone Hollywood stars. Everything seems a bit off center, even a bit hokey, but in its own asymmetric style, it all fits. Though the room tingles with the warm hubbub of groups having fun, the well-stuffed burgundy crescent banquettes and the high backed, mad-hatter chairs frame individual eating nooks for cozy, and intimate conversation.

After our first experience at Red Monkey, I read the reviews; not so great.  Several complained of the recent changes. Though retaining the five TVs over the bar, the Monkey, under manager Guy Meacham’s guidance, had metamorphosed from sports bar to chic restaurant frequented by families and couples. Never has Guy not been there to greet us; has he a bed in the basement? With mixed feelings the other night, we noted his success, every chair occupied. I hope the owners truly appreciate Guy; it is so easy to take such talent and work ethic for granted.

Last Saturday, I called to reserve a banquette only to be told by Laura, in her truly gentle voice, that they did not take reservations. At my request, Guy came to the phone and said not to worry, there would be a table waiting for us.  When we got there, a hand-printed sign on the table read, “Reserved Headmaster.”  What a fleecy warm stroke to my ego.  I waved to Zack who tended bar; he waved a great smile back.  Young couples sat tête-à-tête; families gathered around the larger tables; and kids of all ages (even those sulky teen years) seemed to be enjoying themselves.

Patrick, our favorite waiter, was off that night; Daryl took his place.  He chatted with us and played a bit with Nicholas our three year old grandson, who had already informed me, “No cherries -- olives tonight.” Referencing the Manhattan I’d had a few nights back, he now staked claim to this night’s drink garnish.  As we all got settled, I took off with Nicholas to “interview” Zack.  Without slowing his pace, Zack managed to discuss the importance of Hemingway, bring another couple at the bar into our conversation, hand Nicholas a few more olives, and go on to recommend my reading Milan Kundera, a Czech now living in France and nominated several times for a Nobel Prize in literature.  What fun.  I so rarely get to talk about our literary world.  Red Monkey is quirkily confident enough to enjoy and keep a bartender so literate and engaging.  Guy hires great people, no mere tray holders or menu rattlers. Daryl, tonight’s waiter, presented well:  a warm, friendly smile accented by a short well-kept beard. Originally from the Princeton area of New Jersey, he and his wife have moved to Raleigh where he works in human relations with a large company.

Red Monkey’s menu strives for understated quality; the chef takes ordinary American dishes and amplifies them to high levels of excellence. My son, a food truck chef and owner, had the On the Border Burger ($12) which he raved about: great concept, great taste, juicy burger and fantastic fries.  His wife, a vegetarian, had the Rock Shrimp Bisque ($6) and the spinach and feta cheese South of the South Empanadas Haven ($10); three per plate, flaky dough, moist and savory.  My wife had the Lobster BLT ($18); my sister the Monkey Field Green Salad ($9).   Nicholas also had his usual, kid’s mac and cheese ($4.95), he loved them -- and so did the rest of us.  Tonight I decided against my very favorite, Harrys Carpaccio Rustic ($12), in order to try the Braised Beef Ribs ($22) with its rich mushroom and onion gravy. A real delight.

Our only mishap that evening came when Nicholas accidentally spilled a glass of water all over the table (and my wife).  We all jumped, startling him to tears; others at the table proffered napkins, which proved useless being the non-absorbent, no-iron variety.  Neither Guy, at the far end of the restaurant, nor Daryl, in the kitchen checking on an order, could come to our rescue.  This left only the nearby door receptionists, who produced an unopened package of bathroom hand towels.

This review has been difficult to write.  Witty and acidic come easily; praise not so much. Red Monkey is our go-to place, our Cheers. I hate malls and rarely shop there, we actually go there for the food and the company. To quote its website, “The red monkey has seen the world beneath the wings of his one man biplane. He comes back home to relax in this home away from home with family and friends!”

Red Monkey Tavern is located in Crabtree Mall. 919-896-7412.  http://redmonkeytavern.com