Bloomsbury Bistro

OK my foodie friends, here’s one you need to try.

Bloomsbury Bistro is located within and serves the historic, well-heeled neighborhoods of old Raleigh, just off the Five Point intersection of Glenwood Avenue.  My college roommate twice recommended that we try Bloomsbury Bistro. I’d hesitated for almost a year, Five Points appeared far less interesting than downtown.  Bottom line however, he was right. Located in a small strip mall with plenty of easy parking, Bloomsbury’s plain, decades old, exterior belies the delights contained within. We’ve been twice, on our second trip with our good friends Gus and Liz from New York.
On both our visits, we were met warmly at the door by Charles, the sommelier, a fortunate delight for Gus, an active collector of premium California wines, who praised Bloomsbury’s wine list and enjoyed a long conversation with Charles. Our table with its starched white table cloth suggested European affluence.  No airs, no pomp, only solid integrity. 

When making a reservation, ask for Bill as your waiter.  We have had another who was not nearly as professional.  Bill’s quiet unseen hand made sure that the drinks and food arrived in a timely and unrushed manner.  I prefer chatting with waiters who I generally find very interesting; Bill obliged me as long as our “chatting” did not interrupt his service to us or to others.

Bar tenders have far more opportunity to be gregarious and Tony was no exception.  His warm, open face smiled his customers into a comfortable warmth.  On our second visit, a Monday evening, the bar seats were filled with couples of all ages. I attribute this to Tony; I’m guessing that many were regulars from the neighborhood. 

Now to my litmus test: the martini. This ought to be easy, a good gin with a twinkling of dry vermouth.  Not so. I’ve learned to explain at length what I want. Bill waited and then patiently replied, “Of Course.” And, he was right. Tony provided a superb martini. My off-hand remark that olives belong in the gin was remembered in my second drink. Yes I can be that persnickety. The olive, more than a dash of color, adds a musky whimsy to the gin.
Just before the drinks, Bloomsbury’s own herb infused bread arrived – hot.  What is better than freshly made hot bread?  And what better accompaniment is there to a splendid martini or a glass of red wine?

As for the food – delicious.  Despite having been there twice, we have yet to do justice to the appetizers despite how good they sound. Gus and Liz had Greek salads, and both claimed these were among the best they had ever tasted.  I ordered a scoop of the pimento-cheese grits, which accompanied one of the special entrees. Good choice on my part – delightful and so very Southern.  At most restaurants, even such a simple request would have arrived fully dressed with all kinds of frou-frou to pretty it up.  Not here. I received exactly what I asked for, a scoop of the grits.  Though Bloomsbury is a “fancy” restaurant, and the dishes did arrive beautifully plated, I liked it even more for this simple honesty.

Next time I just may have three appetizers and forego both the entrée and dessert.  So many great choices. Perhaps potato gnocchi carbonara with pancetta, then Damascus style spiced lamb confit “pie” in puff pastry; followed up with roasted butternut squash with candied Granny Smith apples. See what I mean about tasty delights.

On our first visit, we both had fish: my wife had the grilled Scottish salmon over Parmesan soft polenta. The Italian polenta, one of Vivian’s favorite, was the smoothest, lightest either of us had ever had; it balanced beautifully with the salmon. So delighted was Vivian that she ordered it again on our return visit. My lightly battered fish, atop its own mixture of vegetables also included Tuscan kale.  In fact, I ordered it for the kale. For over a year so many of the mouth-watering recipes in the Sunday New York Times had featured Tuscan kale, and now I know why. It’s slightly crunchy texture and subtle flavors enhance the other vegetables with which it is paired.

Gus enjoyed his grilled chicken from the specials list with the grilled asparagus and cherry wood smoked bacon. Liz’s homemade ricotta and black truffle tortelloni from the appetizer list came out large and plump, filled with tasty surprises.  I indulged myself with the bacon crusted calves liver. We were all thoroughly impressed, full but not stuffed, just happy and contented.

 On both occasions we all had the figgy pudding dessert, and both times for the same reason. It was greatly sought in the Christmas song. Bloomsbury’s presented a flan, flaked throughout with slivers of port infused figs which we shared and enjoyed together.

After the meal, as I personally thanked our bartender, Tony, we met a lady drinking a Left Bank. On our second visit, Tony devised for me a martini with a splash of St. Germain elderberry cordial, undiluted by a Left Bank’s chardonnay.  Now when I make our reservation, Tony has to be there. I go back for the food, but now especially for this truly, truly, special-best martini. 

My only hesitation in recommending Bloomsbury to you? I don’t know your preference in atmosphere.  Downtown’s high-profile restaurants attract the affluent, and sometimes loud, up-and-comers in their late twenties and early thirties. Bloomsbury Bistro seems almost like a private club: quieter, casual in a very sophisticated sort of way. My guess would be that Bloomsbury attracts the professional, political and business leaders of our community. One couple, whom we met from the table next to ours, held important positions with two of the larger RTP companies.

My roommate and old friend was right.  Great place, perhaps even a new home for us. Go! Then tell me what you think.

 

Located at 509 W. Whitaker Mill Road Suite 101, Raleigh, NC 27608.

                    919 834 9011    Bloomsburybistro.com